Raising chickens is becoming more popular—whether on farms, homesteads, or even in backyards. Back in the day, farms raised chickens, ducks, and guinea fowl for eggs and meat. Today, more and more people are rediscovering the value and joy of raising their own birds.

Dr. Don Reynolds, Professor and Poultry Veterinarian Extension Specialist at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, offers expert advice on getting started with chicks and keeping backyard flocks healthy.

Management of Chicks- Getting Started

Young chicks are fragile, especially in the first four weeks. Most young birds die within the first month of their life, so they require careful attention and proper care as soon as you get your chicks.

Feeding Chicks

• After Shipping:  Chicks will be stressed by shipping, if you received your chicks by mail.  Chicks can live off yolk material they carry inside for 2-3 days. 
• Help Them Start: It is important to get your chicks to eat or drink immediately. Dip their beaks into the drinker and feeder, to help them find their new source of nourishment. 
• Use the Right Feed: Choose a starter feed that is designed for chicks.  Dr. Reyolds suggests using medicated feeds with amprol to prevent coccidiosis, a disease that causes bloody diarrhea.
• Use Shallow Waterers: Use waterers designed for chicks, or use shallow dishes of water.  Chicks can fall into deep waterers and drown.

Brooder Temperature is Crucial 

Because chicks are so small and can’t control their internal temperature, they are easily chilled or overheated.  When you get your new chicks, you will need to keep them at a constant and warm temperature for several weeks. 

• Use a brooder box (or container) and a heat lamp that you can adjust the temperature on, or a way to move the lamp up or down. 
• You will need a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
• Remember that litter is flammable and you will need to make sure the heat lamp is secure. If a heat lamp falls into the litter, it could cause a fire.
  • Remember to warm the floor with a heat lamp before placing chicks.  Cold cement, dirt, or litter will chill the chicks.
  • Slowly decrease the temperature by 5°F over the first week.  For example, on Wednesday drop the temperature by one degree to 94°F. Each day drop the temperature by one degree, until you are at 90°F at the end of the week.
  • Again on the second week, slowly decrease the temperature by 5°F over the week.  Drop the temperature a degree per day, until chicks are at 85°F at the end of the week.
  • Continue in weeks 3 and week 4 to slowly decrease the temperature by 5°F over the week.

Week-by-Week Brooder Temperature Guide

• Week 1: Start at 95°F, lowering by 1°F per day to reach 90°F by week’s end.
• Week 2: Start at 90°F, lowering by 1°F per day to reach 85°F by week’s end.
• Week 3: Start at 85°F, lowering by 1°F per day to reach 80°F by week’s end.
• Week 4: Start at 80°F, lowering by 1°F per day to reach 75°F by week’s end.

Monitor Your Chicks and Adjust the Temperature

The temperature of your brooder pen can fluctuate, especially if your pen is outside or in the sun.  If chicks become too hot or cold, you can use their movement around the brooder pen as an indicator to adjust the temperature.

• Comfortable Chicks: If the temperature is comfortable for the chicks, they should be spread around the pen.
• Too Hot: If the temperature is too hot for the chicks, they will try to escape the heat of the lamp by moving to the edge of the brooder guard.  Chicks are vulnerable to dehydration and could die.
• Too Cold: If the temperature is too cold for chicks, they will all be huddled under the heat lamp.  If you have lots of chicks, they can suffocate when piled up and huddled for heat.
• Drafty: If your brooder pen has a draft, the chicks will be huddled on one end of the pen, trying to escape the cold draft.

Keep It Clean

Wet litter mixed with feed and spilled water can harbor harmful bacteria and viruses.  A dry, clean environment is essential to keep chicks healthy. The pen holding chicks should be dry and clean, especially around the waterers and feeders. 

Caring for Older Birds

Once your chicks are older than four weeks, provide good feed, clean water, plenty of air/ventilation, dry and clean litter, and proper shelter.  Some shelters may need supplemental heat in the winter, as birds’ combs and feet should not freeze.

Other good practices include:

• Use extreme caution when exposing your birds to other birds, as they can bring in diseases.
• Isolate new birds before bringing them into your flock.
• If you take your birds to shows or swap meet, where they can come in contact with other animals, isolate these birds before you co-mingle them with your flock.
• Keep wild birds out of the flock’s waterers and feeders, as they can carry diseases.
• Don’t mix bird species.  For example, chickens and turkeys should be housed separately.

Why Do Chickens Need Vaccinations?

Before you order your birds, check to see if they vaccinated the chicks for Marek’s disease and Newcastle disease.  Vaccines will help birds fight off Marek’s disease which causes tumors later in a bird’s life. Other vaccines may also be needed to prevent disease such as Newcastle disease which causes twisted heads/necks and respiratory problems, so it’s important to receive vaccinated chicks.

Vaccinating your birds after receiving them may be difficult, as vaccines come in large batches (e.g. 5,000 doses).  Unless you have 5,000 birds needing a vaccine, this will not be an economical way to go.

Avian Flu

Avian flu is a serious disease in home flocks and wild birds.  Symptoms range from birds not eating/drinking to sudden death.  If you have sick birds, call your local veterinarian or the State Veterinarian immediately.  The state vet will come out and test your flock at no cost to you. Visit the “Big Red Biosecurity for Poultry” website for more information.

If My Chickens are Sick, What Do I Need to Tell the Vet or Poultry Specialist?

The management of your birds is the first key to keeping your flock healthy.  However, if your poultry get sick, this information is helpful in diagnosing illness.

• What species do you have? (Chickens, turkeys, ducks, guinea)
• What type do you have?  (Layer (for eggs), breeder, meat)
• What is your flock used for? (Pets, home eggs, public sales)
• What is the age of your bird(s)? Many diseases are age related. Give the age in months, weeks, and days.
• Where did you get your bird(s) from? (The feed store, by mail order, a neighbor, swap meet)
• Are the birds vaccinated?  What is their vaccination history?
• How do you house your birds? (Inside, outside, supplemental heat, access to wild birds, especially wild waterfowl)
• How many birds do you have?  Do you have different aged birds?  Are different species together?
• How long has the problem been going on?  How many have died?  What percent of your flock has died?
• What have you done to treat your birds so far?
• Why do you think your birds are sick?  What are their symptoms?
  • Weight loss
  • Off feed
  • Stopped laying eggs, or eggs are soft shelled/misshapen
  • Labored breathing
  • Secretions from their eyes
  • Swollen heads (or swollen around eyes)
  • Lameness or legs out
  • Twisting of the head
  • Diarrhea
  • Bad/different odor
  • Spitting blood from their mouth

If your birds do require medications, a withdrawal time may be required before you eat the eggs they are laying.  Check your medicine’s label for a withdrawal time.  According to Dr. Reynolds, a good rule of thumb is after the last dose of medicine, wait one week (7 days) before consuming eggs laid by that bird.

Visit the “Big Red Biosecurity Program” website or contact your Extension Poultry Specialist for more information.